When speaking of Lý Sơn Special Zone (Quảng Ngãi Province), travelers often think of ancient volcanoes, turquoise seas, fragrant garlic fields, and dramatic lava-rock shores. Yet beyond its raw natural beauty, Lý Sơn’s cuisine is the “yeast” that lingers in visitors’ memories. Among the island’s many specialties, boxfish salad (gỏi cá bò) stands out as a unique dish—simple yet refined, deeply infused with the spirit of the sea.
During a work trip to Lý Sơn, I was invited by a close island-born friend to his home to enjoy boxfish salad made from fish freshly caught that very day. Although I had visited the island many times and tasted plenty of fresh seafood, this was my first encounter with boxfish salad—a dish my friend confidently described as “one bite and you’ll remember it forever.”
The waters around Lý Sơn are rich in rocky reefs and coral, creating an ideal habitat for boxfish. Boxfish have flat, diamond-shaped bodies like leaves, with thick, rough skin and an appearance that is not particularly eye-catching. However, once the skin is removed, the flesh inside reveals itself to be pinkish white, firm, and naturally sweet. Boxfish can be prepared in many ways—grilled with chili salt, cooked in hotpot, or made into sour soup—but turning it into salad best showcases its true flavor.
As he prepared the fish, my friend smiled and said:
“Sea fish salads can be found anywhere, but boxfish salad in Lý Sơn is something special. The meat is chewy and sweet—many people find it even more addictive than anchovy or herring salad.”
Fresh boxfish is cleaned thoroughly, skinned, with the head and innards removed, leaving only the body. The fish is briefly rinsed in lightly salted water to eliminate any fishy smell, drained, and then sliced thinly. Fresh lime juice is squeezed evenly over the slices to gently “cook” the fish—just enough to preserve its freshness and natural sweetness.
As a beloved dish among coastal families, every household has the necessary seasonings on hand. After being lightly cured in lime, the fish is mixed with powdered salt, pepper, chili, ginger, a touch of seasoning, crushed roasted peanuts, sliced onions, and a variety of aromatic herbs. Watching the skilled hands of the preparer, one quickly realizes that although boxfish salad looks rustic, it requires care, experience, and finesse.
A truly good boxfish salad would be incomplete without an array of accompanying greens: basil, fish mint, spiny coriander, young mango shoots, sour starfruit, pineapple, green mango, and thinly sliced green banana. The fish and herbs are wrapped in thin rice paper and dipped into a rich golden sauce—slightly spicy, creamy, and irresistibly flavorful.
The finished plate is visually enticing, with the white sheen of the fish, the vibrant green of herbs, and a few slices of red chili as highlights. Upon tasting, the firm sweetness of the boxfish blends seamlessly with the gentle tang of fruits, the fragrance of wild herbs, the nuttiness of peanuts, and the mild heat of the dipping sauce. Each bite melts on the tongue, making it hard to stop.
The meal becomes even more complete as host and guest gather around the platter of boxfish salad, sipping glasses of spicy Lý Sơn garlic wine, with the vast blue sea before them and the endless sound of waves in the background. It is a feeling unique to island life—simple, heartfelt, and unforgettable.
Today, boxfish salad is no longer found only in fishermen’s family meals but is also served at many eateries and restaurants across Lý Sơn Special Zone. If you ever set foot on this frontline island, after exploring its landscapes and local culture, do not miss the chance to try Lý Sơn boxfish salad—a humble dish that captures the full essence of the island’s sea, sky, and land.
