In Con Dao, people often say: “Every handful of soil carries the bones of a martyr, so walk gently and speak softly.”
Indeed, even at one o’clock in the afternoon, the island rests in an almost sacred stillness. Beneath the green canopy of ancient tropical almond trees and the breathtaking blue of the sea, silence itself feels like a tribute to history.
Our journey began with a visit to Phu Hai Prison, the largest and oldest facility in the Con Dao prison system, built by the French at the end of the 19th century.
Originally called Banh I, it was renamed Lao I under the American-backed regime, later Trai Cong Hoa, Trai Hai, and finally Phu Hai Prison in November 1974.
Under the scorching afternoon sun, our guide led us through the compound with solemn steps. His voice carried a depth of emotion—his own father had once been imprisoned here.
Cau Tau 914 – Footsteps on Sacred Ground
On our second morning, we strolled along the coastal road shaded by century-old tropical almond trees. At Cau Tau 914, a pier named after the estimated 914 prisoners who died during its construction, we sat with local residents, feeling the sea breeze and listening to stories passed down through generations.
Built in 1873, the 107-meter-long pier stretches straight from the Governor’s Residence toward Con Son Bay—a silent monument to unimaginable suffering.
Dam Trau Beach – Beauty Born from Legend
A local islander guided us to Dam Trau Beach, a place intertwined with the legend of the lovers Cau and Trau.
Considered one of Con Dao’s most beautiful beaches, Dam Trau captivates visitors with its golden sand, clear turquoise waters, lush rainforest backdrop and untouched coral reefs.
Located near Co Ong Airport and covering just 3.3 hectares, the beach remains largely undeveloped—only a couple of small food stalls and fishermen selling their fresh catch.
The landscape is enchanting: a long stretch of smooth sand beneath rugged cliffs, two large rocks jutting into the sea like a pair of lovers frozen in an eternal embrace. The water here is strikingly clear—perhaps the clearest anywhere in Con Dao.
We met an American couple who were so mesmerized that they decided to stay on the island for an entire month, returning to Dam Trau every single day.
Hon Bay Canh – The Emerald Treasure of Con Dao
We were fortunate enough to visit Hon Bay Canh, the second-largest island in the Con Dao archipelago.
Lying east of Con Dao, the island is blanketed by primary forests and mangrove ecosystems—home to 882 plant species and nearly 150 animal species.
Snorkeling around Hon Bay Canh is like diving into a living underwater tapestry:
plate corals, table corals, branching corals, massive brain corals—many of which are listed in Vietnam’s Red Data Book.
The island also shelters rare marine life such as dolphins, green sea turtles, dugongs, rock oysters, giant clams, sea cucumbers, butterflyfish, and more.
Its mangrove forest is unique—growing on a foundation of dead coral, sand, and soft clay—allowing visitors to walk easily during low tide without sinking into mud like in other regions.
Nightfall and the Legendary “Tank Crab”
At night, we followed forest rangers into the darkness to observe a species found only on Con Dao: the so-called “tank crab”.
This is Vietnam’s largest terrestrial crab, with a carapace reaching up to 10 cm. Its mismatched, powerful claws allow it to tear leaves and feed on forest vegetation.
Remarkably, the crab can regenerate its claws, a biological feature that continues to intrigue scientists.
Con Dao is beautiful, peaceful, and mysteriously compelling. But beneath its natural splendor lies the weight of history—the suffering, resilience, and sacrifice of tens of thousands of revolutionaries.
Today, the island remains emerald green and serene. Yet every visitor seems to slow down, to reflect—moved by the sea, by the silence, and by the heroic stories forever etched into this sacred land.
