The cult of Bạch Mã Thái Giám—the White Horse Guardian—centers on a deity believed to protect merchants and maritime trade. This commercial-oriented belief system reflects the historical importance of trade to the people of Phú Quý. Until today, local communities continue to revere the deity with deep respect, following long-standing tradition.
In places with bustling ports and active trading communities, the worship of Bạch Mã Thái Giám is common. For example, Hội An still has 12 villages that maintain temples dedicated to this deity, all once recognized by royal decrees. On Phú Quý Island, there are two temples devoted to Bạch Mã Thái Giám, both located in Ngũ Phụng Commune. Though fewer in number compared to other local belief systems—such as the worship of Ông Nam Hải or Bà Chúa Ngọc—the communities of An Hòa and Quý Thạnh still hold elaborate ceremonies every year in the first and tenth lunar months. Every two years, traditional hát bội (classical opera) is performed, creating a festive and highly communal atmosphere.
Origins of the Deity as the Protector of Maritime Traders
Bạch Mã Thái Giám became the patron of merchants through a legendary tale from ancient India about Balaha, the divine horse. The story tells of 800 merchants who, during a trading voyage, accidentally landed on an island inhabited by man-eating demon women. Because the merchants were young and strong, the women did not kill them but forced them to marry and remain on the island.
Longing for home, the merchants prayed to the Buddha for salvation. Moved by compassion, the Buddha transformed into a celestial horse and offered to carry them across the sea—on the condition that none of them look back.
Overcome with attachment to their wives and children, the merchants turned their heads and fell into the sea. Only one man remembered the Buddha’s warning, survived the journey, and later became king of India.
The Buddhist Link: Avalokitesvara’s Manifestation
Buddhist tradition also connects the deity to a manifestation of Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva (Quan Thế Âm Bồ Tát). Cultural scholar Huỳnh Ngọc Trảng notes that:
“Mã Đầu La Sát is a manifestation of Avalokitesvara—human-bodied, horse-headed. A unique feature of Avalokitesvara in Mahayana Buddhism is the ability to appear in either male or female form.”
From this understanding, “Bạch Mã” refers to the White Horse, while “Thái Giám” symbolizes the deity’s gender-transcending manifestation—interpreted through the lens of folk belief.
The Nguyễn Dynasty conferred upon the deity the formal title:
“Dương Uy Ngự Vũ Bảo Chướng Kiện Thuận Hòa Nhu Hàm Quang Thượng Đẳng Thần.”
Today, Bạch Mã Thái Giám remains a revered guardian deity in Phú Quý. Locals offer annual rituals seeking blessings for prosperous trade, good health, and peace.
Why Phú Quý Developed This Commercial-Oriented Belief
Beyond agriculture and later fishing, Phú Quý once thrived on small-scale industries and trade, which elevated the island’s economic prominence. The island’s soil was ideal for:
- mulberry farming
- cotton cultivation
- wild pineapple (dứa dại)
- high-yield peanuts
This supported traditional industries:
- silkworm raising
- cotton weaving (producing vải bạch bố, used as tax payment in feudal times)
- pineapple-fiber hammock weaving
- basketry
- peanut oil pressing
Many of these products were traded widely, reaching Phan Rang and Da Lat. Though these industries have since declined—due to changing markets and the shift toward marine-based livelihoods—they once played an important role in the island’s economy.
This strong commercial history explains why Phú Quý developed the custom of venerating Bạch Mã Thái Giám and Thầy Sài Nại—both considered powerful deities who protect merchants and bless trade.
