Tran Bac Shrine (Miếu Trấn Bắc) is located on Hon Tranh Island, part of Trieu Duong Village in Tam Thanh Commune. Built in the early 19th century, it is one of the most sacred spiritual sites for the people of Phu Quy Island.
Situated about 1.5 nautical miles southwest of the main island, the shrine can only be reached by boat. This remote and peaceful location adds to the spiritual atmosphere of the site.
Architecture of Tran Bac Shrine
The shrine complex includes:
- Main Gate
- Main Sanctuary (Chính điện)
- Incense House (nhà khói)
- Temple of Nam Hai God
All structures sit on an elevated plot of land, surrounded by a lush coconut grove providing shade year-round. The shrine faces southwest.
About 200 meters southeast of the shrine lies Gia Long Well, a 7-meter-deep freshwater well built from coral stone. Unlike nearby wells that contain brackish, undrinkable water, Gia Long Well provides sweet fresh water year-round. For decades, it has been the main freshwater source for military units stationed on Hon Tranh.
Main Gate and Main Sanctuary
The main gate stands 10 meters in front of the Main Sanctuary, built in a simple style with one entrance path.
Inside, the Main Sanctuary is decorated with reliefs of dragons, phoenixes, sea serpents, and carp transforming into dragons. The façade has three doorways. The interior features a central “four-pillar” structure supporting the roof, with beams, trusses, and angled braces intricately connected. The load-bearing blocks beneath the beams are shaped like blossoming vases, while the ends of the trusses are carved into dragon heads.
At the center of the sanctuary are three altars:
- Middle altar: marked with the character “Thần,” dedicated to Tran Bac, Lady Chua Ngoc Thiên Y Ana, and General Trần Hưng Đạo.
- Left and right altars: dedicated to the island’s early settlers (Tiền Hiền) and later settlers (Hậu Hiền).
The altars are beautifully decorated with motifs of twin dragons, four sacred animals, phoenixes, and parallel verses.
Behind and to the right of the Main Sanctuary stands a shrine dedicated to the God of Nam Hai, housing 72 whale skeletons that washed ashore on Hon Tranh over the years — a testament to the island’s deep whale-worship tradition.
Royal Decrees and Worship Traditions
The shrine once received three royal decrees (sắc phong) under King Đồng Khánh and King Khải Định, honoring both Tran Bac and the God of Nam Hai. These decrees are preserved at An Thạnh Whale Temple. During annual lễ tế ceremonies at Tran Bac Shrine, a solemn procession carries the decrees from An Thạnh to Hon Tranh for worship, then back again for safekeeping.
Two major annual ceremonies are held at Tran Bac Shrine:
- 12th day of the 3rd lunar month: Worship of Lady Thiên Y Ana (Bà Chúa Ngọc)
- 7th day of the 8th lunar month: Worship of Tran Bac
All rituals follow the same traditional procedures practiced at An Thạnh Temple.
Life on Hon Tranh Today
Only four households (about 10 people) currently live on Hon Tranh, making a living through farming. These families take turns holding the key and caring for Tran Bac Shrine as well as the whale-worship temple.
However, this situation leads to two issues:
- Difficulties in restoration: As the island is also part of a military zone, residents face challenges in obtaining construction permits. As a result, religious structures remain small and limited in space.
- Cultural fading: Limited accessibility means fewer people visit or worship regularly. Over time, some historical stories, spiritual records, and origins of the deities have faded from collective memory and are missing from official heritage surveys.
